Vuitton AW 12
After a spectacular Spring 2012 collection, Marc Jacobs thought of closing this year’s Paris Fashion Week by asking his entourage to build a locomotive from scratch. A nineteenth century train, to be precise, custom built for this particular show. The Cour Careé in Paris, transformed into an impromptu Louis Vuitton railway station, saw models sitting in pairs, coming down and then being followed relgiously by a conductor devotedly carrying two to three LV bags in his hands. Jacobs spoke about his desire to channel ‘the past’ in this collection, so what says ‘journey to the past’ more than an old-fashioned train? Jacobs also outlined the way his pieces reflect the silhouettes of the turn of the century, even though elements from the sixties and seventies can also be observed.
Since this collection was all about bags – we can’t deny that can we? - more than simply a ‘journey to the past’, this collection can be seen as a ‘return to LV roots’. Louis Vuitton, established in 1854, started mainly as a luggage brand. This tribute to the label’s origins was clearly reflected in the way the bags were thrust into the limelight. Conductors carried three bags and not merely one. Even the clothing numbers featured a checkerboard design that is strongly reminiscent of the ‘damier’ that adorns our favourite LV bags. Think grand, oversized and exotic: that’s the new LV bag motto.
The risk of having a train and bold bags down the runway is that the audience might dare to overlook the clothing. Jacobs averted the unthinkable from happening by including a series of eye-catching details like jewelled brooch buttons, brocade fabrics, hats, high waisted numbers as well as printed trousers. Pieces were generally tailored to elongate the woman’s silhouette, with skirts, dresses and coat dresses paired with cropped pants and the statement platform pumps. This elongated silhouette seems to utter that it’s not all about the bag, it’s also about the woman carrying it.
As far as we’re concerned, we officially filed this collection in the ‘larger than life’ section.
The days of pounding gold chains are over.
Caledonia has had an unquestionable impact on the fashion world, producing some of the biggest names in design
The Dutch town Arnhem depicts a view on the contemporary fashion culture with Mode Biennale
Technology and fashion have gone hand in hand for a long time
Vino interviews Sofie Claes