Bora Aksu FW 12

London Fashion Week has returned! And this time, more than ever, the Autumn/Winter 2012 collections of Friday 17th February provided an ecstasy of variety exposing each individualistic courtier pieces. Perhaps, the designer that stood out the most was Bora Aksu. Contrast, contrast and once again contrast is what made his collection deliriously brilliant. This key word was utilized in every single aspect, be it form, colour, pattern or even make up.

Bora Aksu’s works revolved around the idea of tight at variance with loose, in terms of structure. The paleness of the detailed dress fabrics laid upon the dim and darker materials accentuated the wit of the designer as he succeeded in keeping the viewers on the tip of their toes. The courtier deviated from adopting specific colours; instead he opted to expand his variation which ranged from orangey reds, pinks and yellows to delicate greys.

Furthermore, it was interesting how the models make up consisted merely of blue lips upon nothing but a pale foundation. This created a rather obscure and eerie look, but nonetheless essential to complete the outfits. A particular piece vaguely echoed an old childhood fairytale character: Little Red Riding Hood. It was the fuchsia headpiece that made all the difference in this specific babydoll dress. Although this vague resemblance to religious habits turned heads (could it be another indication of the frustration in suppressed femininity?), the other models were no less accessorized. The close-fitting lace headpiece added sensuality to the collection, which is primarily what Aksu wanted to achieve.

Whereas Aksu operated upon the juxtaposition between light and dark, Corrie Nielson (2010 Fashion Fringe winner) opted for a more consistent collection. She delved intricately into her Scottish roots and emerged with a more modern approach to tartan. The “Vestiarium Scoticum” collection evoked a return to the 50s silhouette with the pinching waists and capped shoulder sleeves. The check prints were alternated with grey, red and black hues. Volume was indispensable, especially when it came to the two spectacular oversized dresses! The monochromatic tartan skirt combined with a white-doomed top evoked an enticing ménage of tartan and tulle. 

Day One of London Fashion Week successfully brought forth numerous phenomenal designers such as Bora Aksu, Corrie Nielson, Fyodor Golan and Jean-Pierre Braganza amongst others, and effectively marks a growing crescendo of other sensational courtiers in the following days.